*TOOLS:

Handsaw or jigsaw, Tubing cutter or hacksaw, Drill, 11/4 -inch Forester piece, 5/16-inch drill bit, 1/8-inch drill bit, Screw rifle or Phillips-head, Framing square, Clamps, basic gun, 5/16- inch staples, Scissors, Pencil, Safety eyeglasses, Clothes iron.

*MATERIALS:

- Two 10-foot spans of lx6

- Two 6·foot spans of

- 1/4-inch aluminum pipes tubing

- 11 ft of vibrant cloth for your ruffle

- 11 ft of vibrant cloth for your ruffle

- 15 ft of ribbon for seaming the ruffle

- 24 drape loops together with clips Materials for constructing the Lemonade Stand underside.

*FASTENERS:

One pound 1&1/4 -inch drywall

Screws

Four l-inch #12 sheet metal screws

Carpenters Wood adhesive Fabric glue

-Setting the Stage:

1. If you have assembled the Lemonade Stand, then you already have what you will need for this particular project. In case you haven't assembled the Lemonade Stand, You will want to construct the 3 bottom panels and reduce on the flagstaffs to dimension. Do not create the shelves, even though - they will just get from the puppeteers' manner!

-Assembling the Curtain-Top Frame:

2. Stack both lx6 boards using their endings. Cut two bits 59 inches ; these will grow to be the long faces of this curtain-top frame. Cut another set 34 inches ; those bits will turn into the short sides of the framework. Eventually, cut two 23-inch lengths; those will turn into the filler bits.

3. Put the 34-inch side bits to a left and directly in your surface. Place the 23-inch filler bits in addition to the 34-inch end bits,with their ends resting along with the endings of the 34-inch bits, to form a rectangle. Place the 23-inch filler bits in addition to the 34-inch end bits, between the endings of this 59-inch front and rear pieces. You must now have a rectangle at 1 airplane on the top. Square up the bits with a framing square across the outer borders.

4. Gently lift the filler bits and place carpenter's glue together their underside surfaces.

Replace them recheck the alignment using a framing square.

Drive four 114-inch screws each filler bit into the finish piece below to secure the two pieces together.

5. Lift up among those long sides and place adhesive on the upper surfaces of the 2 ends below it.

Replace the item. Holding the side set up, push three 1/4-inch screws each end, in the side bit below Avoid forcing a twist in the intense outside corner of every corner; you will be drilling holes for the curtain sticks there afterwards.

6. Repeat step 5 with the other hand.

7. Assess the alignment one final time and attempt to receive the framework as close to square as possible.

(Perfection isn't required.)

Drilling

8. Once the adhesive is dry, turn over the frame. At every corner, square a line 3-percent inches from each exterior edge, so you have two lines which intersect.

9. Place the 1 1/4-inch Forester piece in the drill chuck put the spur of this piece in one of those tiny holes you hit together with the awl.

Drill a hole all the way through the lengthy side and the finish piece under it. Repeat in the other 3 corners.

10. Twist the drape top frame upside down in your own work surfaces, together with the filler bits facing downward and the short sides into your right and left. Square lines round the closer long side 28 inches (from either end. On one of those lines, then mark a point 1 inch from the near edge of this frame.

On the opposite line, indicate a stage 2 inches from the near edge of this frame.

11. Reach around to the lengthy side away from you and square a line 1 inch in from each edge at one of the far comers. Mark the point at which the two lines intersect. Do the exact same on another far corner. When there's a twist in the manner these cross-hairs, rake out it today.

12. Place the 51i6-inch bi t at the drill chuck. Drill a hole all the way through the framework at each of the four things you have researched.

These smaller holes are either [or the curtain-rod finishes. Earning the Awning Ruffle

13. Cut your ruffle fabric into three 12-inch-widc s tulips. Every one is going to quantify 11 f'ct by 12 inches.)Fold each piece in half lengthwise and run a hot iron across the folds. You should now have three 11-feet from 6-inch lengths of fabric.

14. Twist the curtain-top framework so the filler bits face up and a few of those long so ides hangs about two inches away from the front of the wad surface. Clamp the framework set up. Then discover the middle of the front edge of the frame and produce a little pencil mark there.

15. Locate the midpoint of a few of those bits of ruffle fabric. In the midpoint, basic the unfolded edge of the fabric to the middle of the front edge of the frame, keeping the edge of the fabric flush with the upper edge of this frame. Have a glance: The unfolded border of fabric ought to be stapled into the timber along with the folded border should hang .

16. Catch hold of the top border of the fabric a couple inches to the left of the midpoint. Bring the best border back against the midpoint staple, creating a loop of fabric that points out toward you.

Maintaining the top border set up, flatten the loop into the left and basic its own ending to the border of this frame. The new staple ought to be Only about an inch off from the midpoint staple. You have only created one pleat.

17. To earn the second one, catch the fabric several inches to the left of this pleat, pull on the top border back to the basic principles you placed, fold the loop of fabric down into the left, and basic it flush into the upper border of this framework attached into the left, make a string of horizontal, folded pleats throughout the surface of your theatre, such as those in the tops of conservative drapes.

Attempt to create your springs even, stapling each inch approximately. (Pleating could be simpler task with two individuals working together, you to fold and maintain the fabric and another to basic.)

18. When you get to the end of the fabric, staple the limit into the framework, get another amount of cloth, and continue going. Overlap the new cloth within the"ruffle" of this old cloth via an inch or so.

When you reach the corner of the framework, turn and reclamp the framework on the surface and then turn the corner with your cloth.

19. Continue pleating till you arrive at the end of the side. There, cut the cloth about 1/2 inch more than you fold and need this additional underneath before you set the previous staple in just ahead of the corner.

20. Return to the center of front and replicate the pleating and stapling procedure, working to the right, till you've finished the ruffle all the way throughout the front along with another side.

21. Glue a very long piece of ribbon across the top of the ruffle to conceal the principles, beginning in the end of a side, moving round the front, and completing on another side. Cut off the extra ribbon when you're finished.

Gluing, smoothing, and holding the ribbon in place might need a few added sets of hands.The outcome is going to be a gorgeous finished ruffle.

22. Cut the drape cloth in half. Each bit needs to be 5 1/2 feet (but more is fine ).

23. Lay among those bits of cloth flat on your work surface.

On a few of the long sides, fold over 1 inch of the border, iron down it, and staple it in place.

Repeat this procedure on both short sides. Then bring another bit of cloth to your surface and iron and also basic the exact same three folds.

24. Now you are ready to fold, iron, and basic the rest. Work out how far you are going to need to fold to create the final diameter of every fabric 36 inches. In case your fold is over two inches, then use two or three rows of staples to hold it all down.

Or you may cut off a few of the excess fabric to produce your fold less than two inches.

25. Clip the drape loops into a few of those long sides of every slice, beginning in a corner and

Placing a clip every 6 inches approximately.

26. Uncoil the 2 lengths of aluminum tube, bending them till they're essentially right.

To flex (or straighten) the tube, grip it with both hands, with your elbows pointing toward one another and about an inch apart. Gently push with your thumbs until you are feeling that the tube movement. Alter your palms across the tube and press again along with your elbows, bending the tube only a little in every position and its length to prevent creating kinks.

27. Once the aluminum tubing is straightened, place the two lengths side by side and mark them collectively at 5:;4, 3n~, 361/2, 60 Y2, 65 1, 4, and 66:;4 inches from one end.

28. Catch a length of tube in the hands, together with the conclusion you measured from on your right hand. About 11/2 inches in the end, start bending the tube Bend a bit, move your hands further down, and bend a bit more. When you get to the very first design mark on the tube, stop bending and assess your own progress.

Your target is to earn the tubing turn 90 degrees evenly between the end of the tubing along with the very first design mark. Fix your curve by bending (or even unbending if needed ), dispersing your efforts along the entire length of bent tubing. (Perfection isn't required, and you'll have the ability to make adjustments later.)

29. Grip the tubing in the next mark (31 3/4 inches in the finish ), together with the bent end in your right and pointing upward. Begin creating another bend along a flat plane, attempting to finish a 90-degree twist by the time you get to the third design mark. You should wind up getting a bend bend.

30. Hold the tube with the unworked finish in your left, the next bend pointing down, and also the very first bend pointing toward you. Position your horn in the fourth design mark and start bending along a flat plane, attempting to finish a 90-degree twist as you get to the fifth design mark. Use a tubing cutter or a hacksaw to cut the bit in the la t indicate.

31. The next curtain pole is going to be a mirror image of the original.

Repeat measure 26 to create the very first bend. To create the next bend, then hold the tube with its curved finish to the left of your palms and pointing upward, and move your hands to the right as you bend.

For the last bend, then hold the pole so the next bend is towards the left of the palms and points down, and move your hands to the right as you bend.

Cut the item in the finished layout mark.

32. Set the curtain framework upside down using all the 5/16 -inch holes at the corners closest to you. Hold the finished curtain sticks to the curtain framework to confirm their orientation, remembering they float in the middle of this framework. Add the ends a brief way to the 5/16, -inch h o le till the sticks support themselves. The sticks should curve round the exterior of the bigger holes (so that on opening night that the curtain may trace exactly the identical route around the rod which wilt run through the holes) In case your sticks are out of alignment, then bend them into place today.

33. Eliminate the curtain sticks one at a time and slide the drapes onto them. Function the ends of these sticks down to the holes until they achieve all of the way through the framework to the surface.

34. Place the framework on border with its surface facing one. Drive the: until sheet-metal screws to the tube before the screw head contacts the timber framework. This can be an unorthodox use of screws and aluminum tubing, but with some excess force, the threads must bite in the aluminum and flare it nighttime against the surfaces of the drilled hole.

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